“Paris of South America” — I did not come up with this, it is the nickname of Buenos Aires. Seriously, when I first landed there I thought this place was in Europe. The architecture, the food, the people even (a lot more white population).
Argentina was the second country in my 2022 year-end backpacking trip. It was freaking amazing to say the least.
Is Buenos Aires Worth Visiting?
I think Buenos Aires quickly became my favourite city of this trip. It is a little bad for me to say this but inflation was really bad when I went there, so I could afford a lot more. And they have killer steaks. Argentine steak is amazing quality and Argentine wine (Malbec) is so affordable and good ($2 from supermarkets). It was a bit of a hassle to change money though to get the “blue dollar rate” — you have to exchange money with locals and not at official money exchanges. (Update 2025: The inflation has been largely fixed by their new president Javier Gerardo Milei, so it is less affordable now. But hey! Good for Argentina!)
European Architecture in Latin America
A distinct European feel to the buildings and roads here — it was hard to believe this is Latin America and people speak Spanish, because of the large white population and the building style.
Check out their National Congress Building — it looks like it belongs in Paris or Rome.
Buenos Aires vs Other South American Cities
Buenos Aires feels nothing like Rio or São Paulo. Where Brazil is tropical, loud, and colourful, Buenos Aires is more refined and European. The architecture, the cafe culture, and the wine scene make it feel closer to Madrid or Paris than to any other Latin American capital.
Food-wise, Buenos Aires wins for steak and wine hands down. For beaches and nature, go to Rio. For big city Asian vibes, São Paulo. But for culture, architecture, and affordable fine dining — Buenos Aires is hard to beat.
How Many Days in Buenos Aires
I would recommend four to five days. One day for Palermo and the cafe scene, one for Puerto Madero and the waterfront, one for La Recoleta Cemetery and El Ateneo Grand Splendid, and one or two days to explore San Telmo, eat steak, and just soak in the European atmosphere.
If you are there over a weekend, the San Telmo market is a must. Buenos Aires is very walkable, so you can cover a lot of ground on foot.
What to Eat in Buenos Aires
Argentine Steak: The Best Beef in the World
Argentine steak, renowned for its rich flavour and tenderness, is a cornerstone of Argentine cuisine. Typically sourced from grass-fed cattle, these steaks are celebrated for their robust taste and succulent texture.
Steak is the staple here. I love the beef so much and it is affordable compared to everywhere else I have been to. They give so much sides too. The only other place I know with an obsession with steak is Texas, and even in Texas the steaks are not as nice as Argentina.
Yes it comes in all kinds — with eggs, onions, fancy, no-frills. I love Argentine steak.
Of course there are other options too — honourable mentions to fish and pork if you ever get tired of the beef, which I doubt. These options are cheaper than steak too.
Yerba Mate: The Bitter Tea That Brings Argentines Together
There are a ton of good cafes selling really good coffee and desserts such as the carrot cake above ($1!). And let us not ignore the Yerba Mate tea, a traditional South American beverage made by steeping the dried leaves of the Ilex paraguariensis plant in hot water. Rich in nutrients and antioxidants, it offers a unique flavour profile and a gentle caffeine boost.
This is a high energy and caffeine tea that almost anyone drinks in Argentina. Messi the soccer star drinks it frequently too — it is almost like a national drink. It has a slightly bitter, strong taste.
Where to Stay in Buenos Aires
I stayed with an Argentine family at a very good location, walkable to many touristy sites. I paid something like $15 a night for a room. If I paid with cash I could pay even less (there is the blue dollar rate which I mention below). I think for an interesting city like Buenos Aires, this price is unbeatable.
And the Airbnb was just beside the San Telmo weekend market — I bought some good handicrafts.
Things to Do in Buenos Aires
Palermo: The Trendy Heartbeat of the City
Palermo is the largest neighbourhood in Buenos Aires, covering approximately 17.4 square kilometres. It is renowned for its expansive green spaces, cultural institutions, and lively atmosphere.
This is a hip neighbourhood with cafes, restaurants and good Airbnbs. Think of this as the Capitol Hill neighbourhood of Seattle, kind of. Good area if you want convenience and safety. I suggest half a day walking tour of this area.
Puerto Madero: Modern Architecture Meets the Waterfront
Puerto Madero is a prominent neighbourhood in Buenos Aires known for its modern architecture, upscale residences, and vibrant cultural scene. Situated along the Río de la Plata riverbank, it represents one of the city’s most significant urban redevelopment projects.
The most developed neighbourhood in Buenos Aires. Great waterfront, good restaurants and bars on the pricier side. It was close to my Airbnb and walkable distance from there.
Certainly reminds me of Clarke Quay in Singapore — a waterfront with bars, clubs and shopping. There are also high-rises nearby, with lots of fitness enthusiasts.
So many fit people in this park — I love this vibe.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid: The Most Beautiful Bookstore in the World
El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a renowned bookstore located in the Recoleta neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. Housed in a former theatre, it has been acclaimed as one of the most beautiful bookstores globally. This is a tourist attraction but also a legitimate bookstore — great for taking some photos.
La Recoleta Cemetery: A Must-Visit for History Lovers
La Recoleta Cemetery, located in the Recoleta neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, is renowned for its architectural beauty and as the final resting place of many notable individuals. Established in 1822, it was the city’s first public cemetery, designed by French engineer Próspero Catelin.
I have a habit of exploring some very old cemeteries whenever I am at a new place. Kind of reminds me of the shortness of life. Anyway, this cemetery is actually very cool. Lots of famous people rest here and I even saw a new tomb being built and the whole family was there.
Argentina, although it has had a very bad economy recently, has very strong nationalist pride. I felt that this cemetery reminds people of that.
Eva Perón’s tomb is here too. She was the First Lady of Argentina from 1946 to 1952. She is remembered for her advocacy for labour rights, women’s suffrage, and her work with the poor. She passed away at age 33 in 1952. Shortness of life, but a legacy to be remembered.
World Cup 2022 Celebrations
I was caught up in the Argentina win in the World Cup 2022 and saw lots of celebration decorations! Being caught up in this historic once-in-a-lifetime experience — it is crazy to even think about it.
Final Thoughts
I rate Buenos Aires as the top city of my South America trip in 2022. Great architecture, history, food, and cost. I know inflation was very bad and I had to exchange money on the streets (a very normal thing to do, even if I do not speak Spanish). There was surprisingly a lot of Chinese companies there too, so there is some Chinese population — and I did get called Chino a few times. I guess racism is everywhere but most people I met were very nice.
One incident was that I did not bring my keys to the Airbnb out (you need keys to enter the building). And it was Christmas Eve — the host was out, and every restaurant (even McDonald’s) was closed. I thought I would spend the night on the streets! Then the host called the building management who luckily was around to help me get into the building. I tipped him even though he was not expecting it.
I do feel kind of sad that he had to spend Christmas by himself (like me). I hope Argentina’s economy improves. (Edit 2025: it is improving!)
Lastly, I want to share this photo of a family-run small restaurant. Dad is the chef, mum manages the money, teenager son speaks a little English and is helping, and an old Japanese man seems to visit this place often. The Japanese man could barely walk and spoke little English but saw me (Asian), and wanted to speak to me. He said Singapore is good.
I do not know what to feel about this, but it was a mixture of a nice family making an honest living and an old man at the end of his life probably with interesting stories. I know I will remember this image for life.