I spent a few days in Cusco before Machu Picchu. It is probably the second most famous city in Peru, the other being Lima. I visited this city in December 2022 and spent a good week there. It is high up in the mountains, so be prepared for altitude sickness.
Is Cusco Worth Visiting?
This is going to make some people mad, but my experience in Cusco was pretty mid. Mainly because of altitude sickness, which never really got better for me, and the food was overrated. Now let me explain — the food is good, but perhaps it was the places I went to. Some restaurants were too touristy, so I did not get the best version of some of the iconic Cusco dishes. Also, the food reminds me a lot of Asian food in Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia, so while I liked it, I did not find it as fascinating as what everyone says about Peruvian food.
Still, many people have high reviews of Cusco. I am sure it is a worthy place to visit, especially if you are going to Machu Picchu anyway.
How Many Days in Cusco
I spent about a week in Cusco, but three to four days is enough for the highlights. One day for Plaza de Armas and the surrounding streets, one day for San Pedro Market and the local food scene, and one day for Cristo Blanco and other viewpoints. You also need at least a day to acclimatise to the altitude before doing anything strenuous.
If you are using Cusco as a base for Machu Picchu, add two more days for the trip there and back. A full week gives you breathing room, literally — the altitude is no joke at 3,400 metres.
What to Eat in Cusco
Fried Guinea Pig: The Iconic Andean Dish
Fried guinea pig, known as “cuy chactado” in Peru, is perhaps the most iconic Cusco dish. The guinea pig is marinated, flattened, and fried until crispy. It is a traditional Andean dish and is typically served with potatoes and salad.
The fried guinea pig was a little too oily for me and it looked scary. There is also the non-fried version. To be honest I did not really like this dish, but it is still a must-try for the experience.
Cusco Sour and Pork Sandwich: Street Food With a Kick
The Cusco Sour is a traditional Peruvian cocktail originating from Cusco. It is a variation of the famous Pisco Sour, with local adaptations. The drink typically consists of pisco (a type of brandy), fresh lime juice, simple syrup, egg white, and a dash of bitters.
The Pork Sandwich is a delicious and hearty snack commonly found in Peru. It typically consists of succulent slow-cooked pork, known as “carnitas”, stuffed in a fresh bun and garnished with salsa criolla (a tangy onion and chilli salad). This sandwich is savoury, rich, and bursting with flavour, making it a popular choice for a quick meal.
I love simple food like these, no fancy bullshit.
Lomo Saltado and Caldo de Res: Comfort Food in the Cold Mountain Air
Lomo Saltado is a renowned Peruvian stir-fry dish that fuses Chinese and Peruvian cuisines. The name translates to “jumped loin” in Spanish, referring to the quick cooking method.
Caldo de Res, translating to “beef soup” in Spanish, is a traditional hearty soup originating from Mexico, though it is enjoyed in various Latin American countries, including Peru.
Again, simplicity is best.
Things to Do in Cusco
Plaza de Armas: The Heartbeat of Cusco
The Plaza de Armas in Cusco holds great historical and cultural significance. Originally the site of Incan royal palaces, it has transformed over the centuries into the city’s central square. Surrounded by impressive colonial architecture, including the Cusco Cathedral and the Church of La Compania de Jesus, the plaza serves as a vibrant hub for festivals, markets, and daily life.
This is the centre square of Cusco, where you can find lots of shops, money exchanges, tour agencies, cafes, restaurants, and tourists. It is a photogenic spot for sure. I recommend spending a good two to three hours just checking out this area as it can be pretty big.
Many tourist blogs show photos of these narrow walkways in Cusco, so here I am showing some as well. This is pretty iconic Cusco, especially the yellow colour.
San Pedro Market: A Feast for the Senses
The San Pedro Market, located in the San Pedro neighbourhood of Cusco, is a bustling hub of local commerce and culture. Established over 70 years ago, it has become a significant landmark for both residents and tourists. Housed in a building designed by Swiss architect Alfred Zollinger, the market showcases a vibrant array of goods, including fresh produce, meats, textiles, and handicrafts. It serves as a vital resource for local residents, offering affordable and diverse products.
This is another good spot to check out — lots of shops and food stores that are much more affordable than the other touristy places. Food here reminds me of the hawker centres in Singapore, so good. I had to revisit this place many times when I was here. The pork sandwich from earlier is from this place.
This chicken reminds me so much of the chicken used in Singapore chicken rice. It is very delicious and I probably went back two to three times just to eat this. And the prices are good too.
Cristo Blanco: Big Views Under a Giant White Christ
Cristo Blanco, translating to “White Christ” in Spanish, is a prominent 8-metre tall statue of Jesus located on the Sacsayhuaman hill, overlooking the city of Cusco. This striking statue was a gift from Palestinian refugees in the 1940s, symbolising peace and goodwill.
This statue reminds me of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, but a lot smaller. It is on top of a hill and you get great views of Cusco from up there. I quite liked this little tourist attraction and it was easy to get to.
Final Thoughts
I think Cusco is polarising — some may love it, some may not. For me I did not really enjoy it for the reasons I stated above, but I can see why someone would love it. Personally I know someone who digital nomad-ed there for two months and loved it.
Regardless, it is a must-visit if you are going to Machu Picchu.