In December 2022, I visited this vast, wild expanse at the southern tip of South America. Patagonia is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, ranging from towering mountains and expansive glaciers to serene lakes and lush forests. I discovered not only the region’s unparalleled natural beauty but also its rich culinary legacy.
Is Patagonia Worth Visiting?
Yes. Most beautiful place ever. A hiker’s paradise.
I cannot stress how beautiful this place is. Patagonia is a mountainous region split between Argentina and Chile. I went to the Argentina side for about 10 days in December 2022. I often compare it to the Pacific Northwest in Seattle, but if I have to choose, it is Patagonia hands down because of the nature, affordability, and overall vibe.
How Many Days in Patagonia
I spent about 10 days and it felt right. You need at least two days for El Calafate and the Perito Moreno Glacier, then about five to seven days in El Chaltén to do the major hikes — Laguna de los Tres, Laguna Torre, and Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. If you want rest days between hikes (recommended), a full 10 days is comfortable.
For a shorter trip, you could do five days — two in El Calafate and three in El Chaltén — but you would need to pick your hikes carefully. Come during the summer months (November to March) only.
What to Eat in Patagonia
Argentine Steak: Flame-Grilled and Full of Flavour
If you have read my Buenos Aires post, the food here is still steak heavy, but it also includes other options like lamb and Milanesa. The costs are about 30% higher than Buenos Aires, but still value for money (averaging about $10-$15 for a steak when I was there).
Patagonian Lamb: Slow-Cooked and Worth the Wait
Lamb is more common in this region — I believe Patagonia has its own lamb so it is considered a local speciality. I liked the lamb a lot.
Ceviche and Milanesa: Coastal Zing Meets Classic Crunch
I also had Milanesa and Ceviche.
Ceviche is really a Peruvian dish, but other countries like Argentina make it too, so I had to give this raw fish salad a try. I quite liked it, but I will get my next one in Peru.
Milanesa is one of the most beloved and widely eaten dishes in Argentina. It is a thin slice of meat, typically beef or chicken, that is breaded and fried until golden brown and crispy. Similar to the Italian “Cotoletta” or the German “Schnitzel”, but with a uniquely Argentine identity.
The Milanesa was a bomb to be honest — I could not finish it even after a 7-hour hike.
World Cup 2022 Finals in Patagonia
I got caught up in the most unimaginable event of my life: Argentina winning the World Cup 2022 after a very close match with France. To be able to be a part of the celebration in Argentina, watching the match through to the last-minute penalty, with people crying beside me — for a moment I wanted to wear a Messi jersey and call myself Argentine.
Definitely a memory of my life so far. Looking at the kids in this photo, I am sure Messi and the whole Argentina football team has created history for this younger generation.
Look at this mad crowd just celebrating the win. Loved the energy, loved the people, loved the place — I swear even looking back at this two years later, I cannot forget this moment, that I was able to witness history and be involved in the celebrations.
Things to Do in Patagonia
El Calafate: The Gateway to Glaciers
El Calafate is a charming town that serves as the primary gateway to the magnificent Los Glaciares National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to some of the world’s largest glaciers, including the famous Perito Moreno Glacier.
This is the first town you reach after flying into the Patagonia airport. I took an airport shuttle which cost like $10, and I could buy the ticket from the airport. This is like a small American town, similar to Ithaca in New York if you know about that place. There are restaurants, bars and good enough amenities. I watched the World Cup 2022 finals here!
Perito Moreno Glacier: Nature’s Ice Marvel
The Perito Moreno Glacier, a stunning river of ice extending 250 square kilometres, is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world. Located in the Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia, it attracts thousands of visitors each year due to its remarkable beauty and the unique phenomenon of glacier advancement.
This gigantic ice glacier has not melted over decades. You can take a bus to it and also spend $20 to take a boat that will take you real close to it. There is also the option of doing some ice hiking at more cost. I took the boat and just walked on the bridge — in my experience the boat may not be necessary. I would have gone for ice hiking if I had more money back then.
There are many tour agencies in El Calafate that offer this tour service — they pick you up from your hotel and take you for a half-day tour, and you get to explore the glacier on your own for a few hours.
The bridge viewing area has a cafe and is decently long for walking. Only two years later (2024) in Alaska have I seen such a natural wonder. If this is your first time seeing a glacier, you will be amazed.
El Chaltén: Argentina’s Trekking Capital
El Chaltén, nestled in the foothills of the Andes in Argentine Patagonia, is renowned as the country’s trekking capital. This charming village, established in 1985, serves as a gateway to some of the most breathtaking hiking trails and landscapes in the Los Glaciares National Park.
El Calafate can get boring quite fast because it is not exactly close to hikes, so El Chaltén it is! I had to take a bus that took a while to reach El Chaltén — it is a 3-hour bus ride away, and there are multiple bus companies operating this route.
El Chaltén is a small village — food and accommodations were more expensive than Buenos Aires but still considered affordable back then. People can stay here for months to do long hikes into Patagonia. I stayed here for about one week and went on day hikes every day. There are two main hikes that people do in El Chaltén — Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre. These are both around 20km and can be done in a day. I decided to do both.
Laguna de los Tres: Epic Views of Fitz Roy
This hike takes you to the pristine Laguna de los Tres, offering breathtaking views of Mount Fitz Roy. The trek encompasses diverse landscapes, including forests, rivers, and rocky terrains, culminating in a steep ascent to the lagoon.
It was a 7-hour hike from El Chaltén and the last 1km was a mad incline of rock climbing. But at the end you get rewarded with the best view of Laguna de los Tres and Fitz Roy, the most famous mountain in Patagonia.
This is a photo of Laguna de los Tres from a hill — those small dots are people! And you know what, the water is drinkable here. I saw lots of people just filling up their bottles with the water.
Beautiful blue waters and hikers just taking a break after the long hike up. It is amazing to think that these waters are so blue and drinkable.
Views like these are abundant on the hikes surrounding El Chaltén, Patagonia.
Laguna Torre: A Hike to Serenity and Icebergs
There is also Laguna Torre, showcasing the impressive Cerro Torre and its surrounding glaciers. The journey offers a rich tapestry of Patagonian nature, from lush forests to rugged mountains. It is an easier hike (about 4 hours). It had fewer people, the water was more grey-ish but still, great views with floating icebergs in the waters. I did this on my second day hike.
Loma del Pliegue Tumbado: For the Panoramic Junkies
Loma del Pliegue Tumbado is a lesser-known hike in this region but in my opinion it is the most unique. The roads are paved very well, and towards the end it is a huge change of landscape. You can see the road leading to the end of the mountain very clearly, but the climb is rocky.
It offers panoramic views of the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre ranges, as well as the lagoons of Los Tres and Torre. The hike is moderately challenging, taking approximately 6-8 hours round trip.
I highly recommend doing this — also takes about 7 hours.
Final Thoughts
I love this place. The little pity I had was not exploring Patagonia on Chile’s side. However, this area is so quaint — amazing hiking, amazing food, friendly people. I would love to live here for a good 3-6 months.
Do yourself a favour and visit this place, but come during the summer months only (November to March). You can also make a trip to Antarctica when you are in Argentina — it is one of the only places in the world to have Antarctica tours.