Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Beaches, Favelas, and World Cup Madness
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Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Beaches, Favelas, and World Cup Madness

📍 Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil was the first destination of my 2 month Latin America travel in December 2022. It had been on my bucket list for the longest time because I have heard so much about the Brazilian Churrasco (BBQ), and I have a few Brazilian friends too.

Fun fact — Brazil is the only country in Latin America that speaks Portuguese and not Spanish.

Is Rio de Janeiro Worth Visiting?

My review is a 100% yes!

Rio is an amazing city — it has beaches, mountains, interesting downtown areas to explore and favelas to visit. People are very friendly, and even though I have heard that this city is dangerous, I felt safe. I think it is best suited for outdoorsy activities. It reminds me of the Southeast Asian tropical climate, warm and humid. It is definitely a unique place to visit, a small city that packs a diverse range of things to do.

Best for: Outdoorsy, beach people who like to party.

How Many Days in Rio de Janeiro

I would recommend at least four to five days. You need one full day for Christ the Redeemer and the surrounding area, one day for a favela tour and the beaches, and a couple of days to explore Centro, Lapa, and the food scene. If you want to add the Corcovado Trail or spend more time at Leblon and Ipanema, a full week is comfortable.

Rio is spread out, but the metro and buses connect the main areas well, so you can cover a lot even in a shorter trip.

Is Rio de Janeiro Safe?

Rio has a reputation for being dangerous but I did not feel it much. The tourist areas like Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon feel safe during the day. Centro can be a little shady — homelessness and rowdiness are more common there, but go during the day and you should be fine. Avoid Centro and Lapa at night unless you are in a group.

Common sense goes a long way — do not flash expensive electronics, keep your phone close in crowded areas, and use Uber at night instead of walking. The favelas should only be visited with a local guide. Overall, I felt comfortable throughout my stay.

What to Eat in Rio de Janeiro

Temperarte: The Buffet Where Locals and Travellers Load Up

Temperarte buffet restaurant with a spread of Brazilian dishes in Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro

Plate loaded with grilled Brazilian meats and rice from Temperarte buffet in Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro

Temperarte Restaurante is a popular buffet-style restaurant located in the Copacabana neighbourhood of Rio de Janeiro. Known for its diverse and affordable offerings, it caters to a wide range of tastes and dietary preferences.

I love to explore local food options and supermarkets. Brazil is famous for meat and pastries. There are a lot of buffet options — for example I tried the Temperarte buffet joint which is a low-mid tier option. It is decently good with a lot of protein options.

Pão de Queijo: Brazil’s Famous Cheesy Bread

Freshly baked PĂŁo de queijo, Brazil's famous cheesy bread snack from Minas Gerais

Shelf of Brazilian beer brands and local snacks at a grocery store in Rio de Janeiro

Pão de queijo, translating to “cheese bread” in Portuguese, is a cherished Brazilian snack originating from the state of Minas Gerais. These small, baked cheese rolls boast a crispy exterior and a chewy, cheesy interior, making them a popular choice for breakfast or as a snack throughout the day.

I like to check out grocery stores when I am overseas as they carry so much interesting products, such as PĂŁo de queijo and Brazilian beer. Usually when I am on a budget I get meals from grocery stores.

Getting Around Rio de Janeiro

Underground metro station platform with tiled walls near Copacabana beach in Rio de Janeiro

Inside a Rio de Janeiro metro train carriage with women-only section signs

Good public transport system. Something I did not know is that there are subway train sections only for ladies to make them feel safer. I accidentally went into one of those sections and a lady politely asked me to move to another. She spoke to me in Portuguese and quickly realised that I was a foreigner.

The metro connects Copacabana, Ipanema, Centro, and other key areas. Buses are also widely available. For getting around at night, Uber works well and is affordable.

World Cup 2022: Watching Brazil Play in Rio

I was never a football fan before this trip — I barely even watched the World Cup before. I roughly knew that it was World Cup season but I did not research the matches before my trip at all. So imagine my surprise when I got caught up in the World Cup 2022 craze here literally the moment I reached my Airbnb. The moment I put my bags down I heard Brazilians downstairs celebrating Brazil’s first goal against South Korea.

Round of 16: Brazil vs South Korea

Local Brazilians gathered around a TV watching Brazil vs South Korea in the FIFA World Cup 2022 round of 16 in Rio de Janeiro

I knew Brazil is a strong football team and most Brazilians are football fans but I was not expecting shops to be closed, people stop working just to watch this match!

Funny thing was that I was the only Asian person around, and when South Korea scored a surprise goal towards the end, I was being jokingly “pushed” by a local as if she was angry. No offence taken at all because Brazilians are friendly and warm — in fact I was welcomed to sit with a Brazilian family at the start of the match.

Quarterfinals: Brazil vs Croatia

Packed crowd of Brazilian fans watching the Brazil vs Croatia FIFA World Cup 2022 quarterfinal match on a big screen in Rio de Janeiro

Quarter Finals is the start of serious business because everyone’s expectations of a team like Brazil is to be at minimum, top 4. And this match was against Croatia, the 2nd place team in the 2018 World Cup. Although Croatia placed 2nd last time, they were still considered a “dark horse” compared to Brazil, which had 5 World Cup wins in total. Needless to say, this was exciting.

For the most part, it was 0-0 and it was intense. Croatia’s goalkeeper blocked so many shots until Neymar finally scored in the last few minutes.

Brazilians jumping and celebrating after Neymar scores a late goal against Croatia in the World Cup 2022 quarterfinals

Street crowd in Rio de Janeiro erupting with joy after Neymar's goal against Croatia in the World Cup 2022 quarterfinals

See happy Brazilians celebrating Neymar’s last minute goal against Croatia. It was MAD!

But as we all know, Croatia did a last minute equaliser as well and brought it to penalties and won the match. I gotta say, for the rest of the day, every Brazilian I met was so sad. Someone even said the Brazilian team got cocky after they scored and celebrated too early.

This kept me thinking — if Brazil had gotten into the Semi-finals, they would have been playing against their archenemy Argentina, that would have been CRAZY! (I only got to know about the Brazil-Argentina rivalry during this trip).

Things to Do in Rio de Janeiro

Copacabana Beach: Sun, Surf, and Endless Energy

Sweeping panoramic view of the famous Copacabana beach shoreline and Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Copacabana Beach is a world-renowned destination celebrated for its stunning 4-kilometre stretch of golden sand and vibrant atmosphere. It was located right beside my Airbnb — talk about convenience!

Just as you would expect of a Brazilian beach, there are lots of people sun tanning, many half-naked, and gotta say I kind of enjoyed it, but it was too crowded for my liking. I did not see many Asians though — not that I was concerned or anything as I am pretty adaptable, but I did get a little bit of stares here.

Christ the Redeemer: Towering Views from Corcovado

Close-up of the Christ the Redeemer statue with outstretched arms on top of Corcovado mountain in Rio de Janeiro

Lush green Tijuca Forest hillside with the trail leading up to Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado mountain

Tourists posing for photos at the base of the Christ the Redeemer statue with panoramic views over Rio de Janeiro

Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) is an iconic Art Deco statue of Jesus Christ located atop Mount Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro. Completed in 1931, the statue stands 30 metres tall, with its arms spanning 28 metres, and rests on an 8-metre pedestal.

It was quite easy to get to because of the train system in Rio. There were lots of people at the top, but otherwise the view was amazing. I have always felt this statue is so iconic, especially after seeing it in the 2016 Olympics.

Rocinha Favela Tour: Another Side of Brazil

Narrow street with shops and motorbikes inside Rocinha, the largest favela in Rio de Janeiro

Dense hillside of Rocinha favela with colourful concrete houses stacked between São Conrado and Gávea in Rio de Janeiro

Rocinha, nestled between Rio de Janeiro’s affluent districts of São Conrado and Gávea, stands as Brazil’s largest favela, with an estimated population ranging from 69,000 to 200,000 residents. Perched on a steep hillside, Rocinha offers a complex tapestry of narrow alleys, vibrant street art, and a bustling community life.

I booked a favela tour I found on Airbnb — the tour guide lives in Rocinha and is familiar with the roads inside. Favelas are “lawless” and police do not really have much influence here. It has its own ecosystem and residents of favelas may also work in the bigger city areas. As a foreigner it may not be convenient to explore the favela by yourself (I saw many tour groups but no individual tourists). However I did see some Airbnb listings of Rocinha favela apartments and the tour guide told me some foreigners come and live here for a few months.

Not entirely sure how safe it is or how it works, but the residents I met were very friendly. Overall 10/10 recommended activity — just make sure to go with a local guide.

Leblon Beach: The Quieter Neighbour of Ipanema

Quiet stretch of Leblon Beach with turquoise waves and the Two Brothers mountain in the background, Rio de Janeiro

Leblon Beach, situated west of Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro’s affluent South Zone, offers a tranquil and sophisticated coastal experience. Known for its upscale ambiance, the beach attracts families and those seeking a quieter retreat compared to its neighbouring shores.

It is the quieter version of Copacabana, and just a 10-15 minute bus ride away. This area is nicer, higher-end compared to Copacabana and I certainly felt it was calmer. Good spot for a sunset stroll.

Centro: Rio’s Downtown Mix of Old and New

Colonial-era buildings and busy streets in Rio de Janeiro's Centro downtown district

Ornate interior of the Royal Portuguese Reading Room with towering bookshelves and stained glass ceiling in downtown Rio de Janeiro

Centro (Downtown Rio) has tons to do. Take a stroll in the business district and check out the Royal Portuguese Reading Room, a cultural and architectural gem nestled in the heart of Rio de Janeiro. Established in 1837 by Portuguese immigrants, this institution was founded to promote and preserve Portuguese literature and culture.

I think Centro is an interesting mix of Portuguese and Asian vibes. Surprisingly found a lot of similarities to Asian cities here — maybe it is the same hot and humid climate?

However Centro can be a little shady — homelessness and rowdiness are more common here. But go in the day and you should be fine, avoid nights.

Lapa: The Hipster Neighbourhood

Colourful mosaic-tiled SelarĂłn Steps with tourists walking up the staircase connecting Lapa and Santa Teresa in Rio de Janeiro

Towering white stone Lapa Arches, an 18th-century aqueduct turned iconic landmark in Rio de Janeiro

Lapa is a hip neighbourhood near Centro known for its lively music scene and bustling nightlife. Two highlights in this area:

Selarón Steps — a vibrant mosaic staircase located in Rio de Janeiro, connecting the neighbourhoods of Lapa and Santa Teresa. This iconic landmark was transformed by Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón as a tribute to the Brazilian people.

Lapa Arches — a prominent historical landmark originally constructed in the mid-18th century as the Carioca Aqueduct, their primary purpose was to transport fresh water from the Carioca River to the city’s downtown area. Today, the Lapa Arches stand as a symbol of Rio’s rich cultural heritage.

SelarĂłn Steps was pretty crowded while Lapa Arches, which is just an interesting piece of architecture, is a lot more shady because of lack of tourists and homelessness. These two are however, good stops to check out.

Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian

The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian, commonly known as the Rio de Janeiro Cathedral, stands as a remarkable example of modernist architecture. Designed by architect Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca, the cathedral’s construction spanned from 1964 to 1979, culminating in a structure that seamlessly blends contemporary design with spiritual significance.

In all honesty, I did not know much about this place — I just researched that it was cool so I went in. It turned out to be a really unique piece of architecture! I took a little rest in this Cathedral before heading out.

Final Thoughts

There is so much more to Rio that I did not have time to cover, such as the Corcovado Trail.

I definitely want to go back to Brazil sometime — such a big country, very diverse mix. I could find good cafes and weekend markets selling tropical produce easily. Rio felt like the Latin America version of New York City (with the diverse mix of people) combined with Asian beach vibes (Bali).

Rio has a reputation for being dangerous but I did not feel it much besides in Centro. Very nice people, cool favelas — I did feel a little out of place as an Asian, but overall this city reminds me a lot of Asia in terms of infrastructure. Come here if you love beaches, culture, and good food!